Unheralded Destination The Cook Islands are one of the South Pacific's more unheralded destinations. Perhaps it has something to do with their remoteness and the difficulty in getting there. They are tucked away in the central South Pacific, distant from New Zealand and Australia to the southwest and North America to the northeast. The Cook Islands became a protectorate of Great Britain in the 1880s at the time when Britain was vying with France for influence and control in the South Pacific. In 1965, they became a self-governing state in free association with New Zealand . Polynesian legend has it that the Cook Islands were settled several hundred years ago during the great sailing canoe migrations across the Pacific. It wasn't until the 1770s however, and the arrival of Captain James Cook, that many of the islands were "discovered." Cook saw several of the outlying islands, but he never saw Rarotonga. These wonderful Islands are a mix of some fifteen small islands and atolls scattered over a large area of the South Pacific. The Cooks lie between French Polynesia to the east and Samoa and Tonga to the west. Rarotonga, the main island, is the government and commercial center. Rarotonga is the only one of the Cook Islands that is a volcanic island with high mountain peaks. The island has a beautiful encircling coral reef, an aquamarine lagoon, and dazzling beaches. It has all the elements that make for an attractive vacation getaway. Getting to Know Raro Rarotonga is small and compact, about 30-square miles in size, and just 20-miles around. It'll take less than a couple of hours to drive around it, depending on how many stops are made. But plan on several. There's much to see and experience. "Raro," as it's called, is indeed as pretty as a postcard. About half of Raro's population of 10,000 live in Avarua town, the island's main center on the north shore. Avarua's historic and cultural sites are tied to the early colonial and missionary era. The National Cultural Center includes University of South Pacific Center and the Library and Museum of the Cook Islands which has an interesting collection of early artifacts and educational displays. One historic building in Avarua is the Cook Islands Christian Church, a white-washed coral stone building surrounded by a cemetery filled with notables of Cook Islands society. For a unique cultural experience, take in a Sunday church service at any of the many churches around Raro, to listen to the wonderful inspirational singing. The Punanga Nui Market is Rarotonga's colorful open market with everything from fresh fish to fruits, veggies and local handcrafts and shouldn't be missed. It operates Wednesday, Friday and Saturday mornings. Rarotonga Around The easiest way to get around Rarotonga is to hop on a motorbike or car and start exploring. You'll need an official Cook Islands drivers license, available from the police station in Avarua town for NZ$15 (about US$8). You can also take the Cook Islands Bus which circles the island hourly and stops at all major resorts, hotels and shopping centers . Two roads circle the island and it's hard to get lost. The Ara Tapu is the newer coastal road and there is an older inland road, the Ara Metua. The newer Ara Tapu links all the resorts, hotels, and beaches around the island with Avarua town. The older Ara Metua road lies a mile or so inland from the coast and from early times connected all the villages around the island. The Ara Metua passes through the farming and garden areas, past orchards of papaya, noni fruit, bananas, taro and veggie patches and provides some great viewpoints. Rarotonga's mountains and rain forest and the encircling reef and lagoon are the dominant geographic features. The highest mountain peaks reach to over 2000 ft. high. The lagoon's crystal clear waters provide great snorkeling to see a myriad of reef fish and varied marine life. The south coast area in the Titikaveka area has some of the best snorkeling on the island. Here the reef lagoon extends out from shore several hundred yards and the waters are generally calm with ideal conditions for easy swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, etc. The Muri Beach area is also good for sailing, kayaking, diving, snorkeling and glass bottom boat cruises. Into the Mountains If you're looking for adventure and want to get into the mountains, check out the Raro Mountain Safari Tour, a 3 ½ hour four-wheel drive Land Rover cruise over the back roads and through the upland areas or Rarotonga. The tour follows the historic Ara Metua back road and takes in Papua Waterfall on the south side and the eastern heights rising behind Muri Lagoon. A stop at the historically important Te Arai-Te-Tonga Marae temple site provides background on early Cook Islands history. A drive up the lush Avatiu Valley affords a closeup view of the famous peak, Te Rua Manga, known as "The Needle." The final ascent climbs the western heights above the airport for spectacular coastal views. For details: www.rarosafaritours.co.ck There are also various guided nature walks and cross-island treks for serious hikers wanting to see more of Rarotonga's rain forest environment. Culture and Shopping For a genuine cultural experience, spend some time at the Cook Islands Cultural Village in Arorangi on the west coast. Step back into history and learn about early Cook Islanders lifestyle. The guided tour through the village includes demonstrations on fishing, pandanus weaving and costume making, Maori medicine and plants, coconut husking, cooking, and, of course, Cook Islands dancing. The tour combines cultural activities with music, song, dance and chants along with a Polynesian-style lunch into an informative and enjoyable cross-cultural experience. Shoppers won't lack for places to discover. There are numerous shops, stores and galleries with everything from T-shirts, pareaus, island-wear, art works and wood carvings to fabulous Cook Island black pearls and excellent Aitu coffee. And because of the favorable exchange rate, US$1 gets NZ$2 (New Zealand currency is used locally), there are bargains to be found. Travel Information Most Rarotonga accommodations tend to be smaller family owned operations. There is something for all budgets, from backpacker hostels to economy motels and more expensive lodges and hotels. But there are no five-star luxury resorts here. A couple of hotels worth considering: The 208-room Edgewater Resort on the west coast is Rarotonga's largest hotel. The comfortable garden, beachfront and deluxe rooms are arranged in two and three-story buildings, all air-conditioned. The resort has a pool, two tennis courts, the Brasserie Restaurant and Spaghetti House Restaurant, bar, and full range of guest services and activities. The beach and lagoon fronting the resort provide great snorkeling and swimming and there are twice-weekly "Island Night" Polynesian buffet dinner and cultural shows featuring a fantastic Cook Islands dance performance by the Orama Dance Troupe. Near Avarua town shopping, dining, etc.; great choice for families. Rates: US$110-120 and up. For information: www.edgewater.co.ck The Club Raro, just outside Avarua town, is a smaller single story complex with 55 garden, pool side and beachfront view rooms. They are clean, modern, air-conditioned, and can accommodate up to three people. The Club Raro Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily with varied menus. The beach here is not safe for swimming and snorkeling as the breaking surf is too close to the shore causing rough surf conditions. Decks along the beachfront provide comfortable perches to just laze, watch the surf, read, and enjoy the special tropical ambiance of Rarotonga. Rates: US$90 and up. For information: www.clubraro.co.ck Restaurants on Rarotonga cover the range from inexpensive cafes and lunch counters to upscale dining rooms featuring international cuisine. Menus include everything from European to Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Italian, Polynesian, and steaks to seafood. The following were found to be worthwhile: Mama's Cafe (tel 23-379) in the heart of Avarua town next to Foodland Supermarket serves snacks, sandwiches, pastries, and has a daily plate lunch menu; good inexpensive food. Spaghetti House (tel 25-441) at Arorangi has an Italian menu featuring pasta, gourmet pizza, steak, chicken and island fish. The homemade lasagne is wonderful. Cook's Corner Cafe (tel 22-345) is right at the bus stop in Avarua town; they serve a full breakfast and lunch menu, plus snacks, sandwiches, coffee, etc.; inexpensive. Alberto's Steakhouse (tel 23-597) at Arorangi features New Zealand steaks but the varied menu also has pasta, Thai curry, chicken adobo, and fresh catch; good salad bar. Kikau Hut (tel 26-860) at Nikao has a garden setting and European menu with items like seafood chowder, New Zealand steak, beef stroganoff, stuffed chicken breast and daily specials on the menu board; good food and service. Edgewater Brasserie (tel 25-435) at Arorangi features a different menu each night; "Island Night" Polynesian buffet and Cook Islands dance show are held Tuesday and Saturday nights and are among the best on Rarotonga. For complete information on travel to and within the Cook Islands, check out the official Cook Islands Tourism Corporation website: www.cook-islands.com © 2003, John Penisten/Pacific Pictures Back to Table of Contents